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   » » Wiki: Costume Jewelry
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Costume or fashion jewelry includes a range of that are manufactured as less expensive ornamentation to complement a particular fashionable outfit or garmentBaker, Lillian. Fifty Years of Collectable Fashion Jewelry. Paducah: Collector Books, 1986. as opposed to "real" (fine) jewelry, which is more costly and which may be regarded primarily as collectibles, keepsakes, or investments. From the outset, costume jewelry — also known as fashion jewelry — paralleled the styles of its more precious fine counterparts.


Terminology
It is also known as artificial jewellery, imitation jewellery, imitated jewelry, trinkets, fashion jewelry, junk jewelry, fake jewelry, or fallalery.


Etymology
The term costume jewelry dates back to the early 20th century. It reflects the use of the word "costume" to refer to what is now called an "".


Components
Originally, costume or fashion jewelry was made of inexpensive simulated gemstones, such as or , set in , , , or . During the depression years, some manufacturers even downgraded rhinestones to meet the cost of production.

During the World War II era, was often incorporated into costume jewelry designs primarily because:

  1. The components used for base metal were needed for wartime production (i.e., military applications), and a ban was placed on their use in the private sector.
  2. Base metal was originally popular because it could approximate platinum's color, fulfilled the same function.
This resulted in some years during which sterling silver costume jewelry was produced and some can still be found in today's vintage jewelry marketplace.

Modern costume jewelry incorporates a wide range of materials. High-end , simulated diamonds, and some semi-precious stones are used in place of precious stones. Metals include gold- or silver-plated brass, and sometimes or sterling silver. Lower-priced jewelry may still use gold plating over pewter, nickel, or other metals; some pieces incorporate , , , or wood.

Some low-cost jewelry has been found to contain toxic metals such as lead.


Historical expression
Costume jewelry can be characterized by the period in history in which it was made.


Art Deco period (1920–1930s)
The movement attempted to combine the harshness of mass production with the sensitivity of art and design. The movement died with the onset of the and the outbreak of World War II.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of the costume jewelry in the Art Deco period were:

  • Free-flowing curves were replaced with a harshly geometric and symmetrical theme
  • Long pendants, bangle bracelets, cocktail rings, and elaborate accessory items such as cigarette cases and holders


Retro period (1935 to 1950)
In the Retro period, designers struggled with the art versus dilemma. Natural materials merged with plastics. The retro period primarily included American-made jewelry with a distinctly American look. With the war in Europe, many European jewelry firms were forced to shut down. Many European designers emigrated to the U.S. since the economy was recovering.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of costume jewelry in the Retro period were:

  • Glamour, elegance, and sophistication
  • Flowers, bows, and sunburst designs with a Hollywood flair
  • Moonstones, horse motifs, military influence, and ballerinas
  • and other plastic jewelry


Art Modern period (1945 to 1960)
In the Art Modern period following World War II, jewelry designs became more traditional and understated. The big, bold styles of the Retro period went out of style and were replaced by the more tailored styles of the 1950s and 1960s.

According to Schiffer, some of the characteristics of costume jewelry in the Art Modern period were:

  • Bold, lavish jewelry
  • Large, chunky bracelets, charm bracelets, Jade/opal, citrine and
  • Poodle pins, Christmas tree pins, and other Christmas jewelry
  • Rhinestones

With the advent of the Mod period came " Body Jewelry". Carl Schimel of Kim Craftsmen Jewelry was at the forefront of this style.See archived article from The Milwaukee Sentinel – Jul 31, 1969: Mod Bods And Chains . While Kim Craftsmen closed in the early 1990s, many collectors still forage for their items at antique shows and flea markets.The Milwaukee Sentinel – Jul 31, 1969. p. 4.Feith, Molly. "Kim Craftsmen – A Tale of Two Brothers." Costume Jewelry Collectors International. Spring 2010 – Vol. 1, Issue 1.


General history
Costume jewelry has been part of the culture for almost 300 years. During the 18th century, jewelers began making pieces with inexpensive glass. In the 19th century, costume jewelry made of semi-precious material came into the market. Jewels made of semi-precious material were more affordable, allowing common people to own costume jewelry.Schiffer, Nancy. The Best of Costume Jewelry. Atglen: Schiffer Publishing, 1999.

However, the real golden era for costume jewelry began in the middle of the 20th century. The new wanted beautiful, but affordable jewelry. The demand for jewelry of this type coincided with the machine age and the Industrial Revolution. The revolution made the production of carefully executed replicas of admired pieces possible.

As the class structure in America changed, so did measures of real wealth. Women in all social stations, even working-class women, could own a small piece of costume jewelry. The average town and countrywoman could acquire and wear a considerable amount of this mass-produced jewelry that was both affordable and stylish.

Costume jewelry was also made popular by various designers in the mid-20th century. Some of the most remembered names in costume jewelry include both the high and low priced brands: Crown Trifari, , , , , , Napier, , , and Kim Craftsmen.Felth, Molly. "Kim Craftsmen – A Tale of Two Brothers." CJCI Magazine, Summer 2010 – Vol. 1, Issue 2.

A significant factor in the popularization of costume jewelry was Hollywood movies. The leading female stars of the 1940s and 1950s often wore and endorsed the pieces produced by various designers. If you admired a necklace worn by in The Private Lives of Elizabeth and Essex, you could buy a copy from Joseff of Hollywood, who made the original. Stars such as , , and appeared in adverts for the pieces and the availability of the collections in shops such as Woolworth made it possible for ordinary women to own and wear such jewelry.See Tanenbaum, C. (2006) Fabulous Fakes: A Passion for Vintage Costume Jewelry, .

greatly popularized the use of jewelry in her years as a fashion designer, bringing costume jewelry to life with gold and faux pearls. Chanel's designs drew from various historical styles, including Byzantine and influences, often featuring crosses and intricate metalwork. Her collaboration with glassmakers, such as the Gripoix family, introduced richly colored glass beads and simulated gemstones, which added depth to her creations without the high cost of traditional precious stones. Kenneth Jay Lane has since the 1960s been known for creating unique pieces for , , , and . He is probably best known for his three-strand faux pearl necklace worn by to her husband's ball. Celebrated names who wore Lane's creations include Jackie Kennedy, Babe Paley, the Duchess of Windsor, and Nancy Reagan.

Elsa Schiaparelli brought surrealist influences into costume jewelry design, collaborating with artists such as Salvador Dalí.

In many instances, high-end fashion jewelry has achieved a "collectible" status and increased value over time. Today, there is a substantial secondary market for vintage fashion jewelry. The main collecting market is for 'signed pieces', which have the maker's mark, usually stamped on the reverse. Amongst the most sought after are , Sherman, , Butler and Wilson, Crown Trifari, and Sphinx. However, there is also demand for good quality 'unsigned' pieces, especially if they are of an unusual design.Miller, J. (2007) Costume Jewellery, .


Business and industry
Costume jewelry is considered a discrete category of fashion accessory and displays many characteristics of a self-contained industry. Costume jewelry manufacturers are located throughout the world, with a particular concentration in parts of China and India, where the trade of these goods dominates entire citywide and region-wide economies. There has been considerable controversy in the United States and elsewhere about the lack of regulations in the manufacture of such jewelry—these range from issues surrounding the treatment of labor, to the use of manufacturing processes in which small, but potentially harmful, amounts of are added during production. In 2010, the Associated Press released the story that toxic levels of the metal were found in children's jewelry. An investigation found some pieces contained more than 80 percent of cadmium. The broader issues surrounding imports, exports, trade laws, and also apply to the costume jewelry trade.

As part of the , wholesalers in the United States and other nations purchase costume jewelry from manufacturers. They typically import or export it to wholesale distributors and suppliers who deal directly with retailers. Wholesale costume jewelry merchants traditionally seek new suppliers at . The trade-show model has changed as the has become increasingly important in global trade. Retailers can now select from many wholesalers with sites on the World Wide Web. The wholesalers purchase from international suppliers available on the Web from different parts of the world, like Chinese, Korean, Indonesian, Thai, and Indian jewelry companies, with their wide range of products in bulk quantities. Some sites also market directly to consumers who can purchase costume jewelry at significantly reduced prices. Some websites categorize separately, while others use this term instead of costume jewelry. The trend of jewelry-making at home by hobbyists for personal enjoyment or sale on sites like has resulted in the common practice of buying wholesale costume jewelry in bulk and using it for parts.

There is a rise in demand for artificial or imitation jewelry by 85% due to the increase in gold prices, according to a 2011 report.


See also


External links
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